Recreating the magic and simplicity of Art Deco, the foremost design movements of the of the 1930’s in art, fashion and architecture, the collection exemplifies a mastery of graphics with its aesthetic message wonderfully suited to both India and Europe. Split into two parts, the show began with the Label Ritu Kumar brand and culminated in RITU KUMAR Couture.
The opening sequence by Label Ritu Kumar presented Art Deco in a contemporary design language and context. Using the motifs and moods of the era, the pieces are crafted to offer a modern representation. Dropped waists, bold forms and delicate embroideries are juxtaposed with modern techniques and shaping. The collection is very graphic. Fabrics are predominantly silks in chiffon, crepe and twill. The mood is svelte evening wear and embellishments exude themes and inspirations from architecture. Blazing colors, rich deep inks, bold and elegant lines made possible by treatments like serigraphy and lithography spell glamour, romanticism and wit
The second half of the show drew inspiration from the Indian Freedom Movement and the colonial era and dipped into the romance of the 1930’s. Using the rich design heritage of Ritu Kumar Couture, the collection draws from the European influence on Indian royalty during the pre-partition period. This results in the use of rich tapestries, laces, brocades and embroideries. The interpretation of the theme uses expert workmanship of the atelier. It carries forward the vintage mood of the previous segment but in its Indian avatar. The geometric motifs form graceful curvilinear feminine lines of paisleys and chintzes in luxurious colours.
The collection ended with a regal collection of gold, black and jeweled ensembles reminiscent of the India of the mid 20th century with its Baroque influences and distinctive style of Indo European fashion. The distinctive element of the show is the showcasing of the wide range of the Ritu Kumar brand at one event. Both history and the future of the brand have been made available on one platform and the appeal is aimed across generations and tastes through a lavish and adventurous presentation.
Esha Gupta was Ritu Kumar’s showstopper at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week: Spring Summer 2013 Grand Finale.